G'Day World! (Aka a New Life Down Under)

Last week I moved to Australia. Can you believe I just said that so flippantly?! If you follow me on Twitter or Facebook this may not come as a surprise to you. If you don’t, it quite likely does! The story behind our move is probably one for another time. For now I just wanted to say ‘hello’ and share a few initial thoughts on our first week here.

"My" kind of weather.

"My Idea of Hell" type of weather. Next Thu/Fri look like fun though!

Blue Skies. What the...?

It’s fair to say that photographically I was apprehensive about making the move to the bottom of the world. Burning sunshine, bright blue skies and red rocks seemed to be the antithesis of what I’d adopted as a dark, moody, and desaturated photographic style in the UK.

Of greatest concern to me was the weather. Blue skies lack all of the mood and drama that get me excited. It is said that the worst time to make photographs is in the middle of the day, and I rarely venture out during the day unless the weather is poor. I've been worried that Australia would be like shooting in the middle of the day all of the time.

Yet the creative spirit rises to a fresh challenge. Whilst my style is certain to evolve, I'm confident that the experience will be a positive one. A totally fresh photographic adventure, another step on the journey.

I’m relieved to say that after a week here I’ve already found ample photographic opportunities - and even some clouds and fierce waves! - and have really enjoyed numerous forays along the coast from my base here in Yamba NSW. Already I’m confident my photography will prosper rather than suffer. Indeed I’m now actively relishing the prospect.

Vastness

Until you get here it's difficult to comprehend just how big this country is. Ok, you know it's big, but the scale of the place is incredible. It's the world's 6 largest country at nearly 8 million km2. Contrast that with the UK's 242,900 km2 and you begin to appreciate that a 'long drive' to Scotland for a photo trip is like a trip to the shops here! Ok, not quite, but being 4 hours from Brisbane and 10 hours from Sydney there are a lot of kilometres to cover to get anywhere.

Where I'm based we're surrounded by national parks. Compared to the UK, national parks are very common and unsurprisingly very large in Australia. Nonethless they're still a bit of a drive away. I have a couple very local to me (one within 5 mins drive) but it's inland to the mountainous wilderness of the New England Tablelands that I find myself strongly drawn to.

Part of the mountainous spine running down eastern Australia known as the Great Dividing Range, the New England Tablelands are the largest highland area in Australia. Most people don't think of Australia as being mountainous thinking instead of beaches and vast desert but these are proper mountains. For example Round Mountain is 1,586m making it 242m higher than Ben Nevis, the UK's highest mountain. There are 25 national parks here, 3 of which are World Heritage Sites. The opportunities that lie up there are mind bending. Plus one of the national parks is Guy Fawkes National Park, named after my great great something uncle, so I have to go don't I?

The downside is that although these are 'close by' they are still several hours away from me here. Whilst I expect to visit them regularly it will be relatively infrequently, spending several nights under canvas to make the most of it.

I don't believe in over-travelling to make photographs. Setting aside the environmental concerns, I think finding locations to work with nearby is important for repeated and frequent visits. This also provides a more personal challenge to produce more intimate and deeply satisfying images than relying on dramatic and iconic locations alone, and helps with my creative progression.

So I'll be picking my way along my little stretch of coast. We sit on the mouth of a large river, the Clarence, with a ferry required to cross. A five minute drive to the south is Yuraygir National Park which at 65km is the longest stretch of undeveloped coast in New South Wales. So I've got between here and there to work with before I have to pack the tent and pull on the hiking boots (which I will of course!).

On paper twilight lasts about 20 minutes less than back in the Peak District but it seems to go from pitch black to light very quickly here.

Hey Dude, Where's My Twilight?

Beyond the size and the seemingly perpetual sunshine, the other thing that has struck me so far about Australia is how short twilight feels and how quickly the sun rises.

This morning I was climbing over rocks by head torch only 30 minutes before sunrise. Once the sun is up, it rises into the sky very quickly giving the ‘middle of the day’ problem of high contrast white light. In the UK I would expect to be shooting for up to an hour before the sun came up.

At the other end of the day the sun sinks and darkness seems to set in unbelievably quickly. One minute I’m making an image, the next I’ve got the head torch on trying to find my way back to the car. We don’t so much get a Blue Hour and a Golden Hour as 30 minutes but Golden Half Hour doesn’t sound quite as good!

The weather also reduces the shooting window. Post-sunrise in the UK you often get more usable light due to ample cloud cover. This is one reason I love being out when it’s cloudy. If it’s overcast you can basically shoot all day. So far I’ve experienced little cloud cover so the light quickly turns harsh forcing me to pack up the camera. Of course part of my adaption to this new landscape will be making best use of this light. I don't believe there is such a thing as 'bad light' rather it's about adapting your approach to the available light.

Nonetheless as a Scot living in one of the wettest parts of the UK, bright sunshine is a bit alien to me and definitely provides me a challenge. With time I expect my images will become lighter, and will play on light and shadow and the graphic shapes they produce. I am also sure that I will be ever more grateful for the short windows of blue offered to me by twilight.

Some Images to Finish With

Anyway that’s a few opening thoughts on my time here. It’s a big country, full of fresh wonder and adventure for me. Already my early apprehension is fading, filled with renewed confidence and excitement that I can produce some great work here. I hope that you stick with me to see some of the results.

Here are some images from the last week. You can see more in my freshly created Australia gallery.

Wild Camping on Applecross

I've been trying to resist the temptation to publish too many of my images too quickly from my time here in Wester Ross. For a while now I've been consciously trying to increase the amount of time between taking an image, and processing and publishing it. If I'm too quick in my posting, I often regret a decision I've made at a later date - either disliking the image entirely, or a processing decision I've made.

Working in Series

Further I'm trying to organise both how I work and the images I publish into better defined series than as individual images. I find for me these tend to coalesce over time rather than being immediately clear up front. Generally speaking I think a little distance from the images I'm making is a good thing. It seems strange being up here and making all of these images without sharing but I think it's right that my focus is on making the images in the field and saving their completion and publication for later.

A Great Night Out

However I had a great night on Saturday night camping on a beach on Applecross that I just couldn't resist sharing some images from. The forecast was promising for sunset. Foremost on my mind however was that I had scouted the location a couple of times and had decided that it would be at its best at high tide which would coincide with sunrise on the Sunday morning.

As I find is often the case, with a lower tide means there's a lot of seaweed and other distracting elements in the water. Having been here at a low tide the fantastic geology and rock formations that I found were distant from the sea and so difficult to include into images with the water. There are large, beautifully rounded boulders of warm Torridon sandstone. As well there are a number of rocky outcrops with channels carved through them by the sea which I thought would be a great subject with a high tide.

The sunset certainly didn't disappoint, it was the most vibrant I've seen since my arrival. Even though I was concerned with the tide being further out there were still some really interesting rocks in the surf. I spent several hours during and after sunset gleefully making images. I didn't manage to pitch my tent until 11pm. After a few whiskies I decided to hit the hay, a warm red glow still clinging to the horizon.

Awaking 4 hours later - these long days are a killer for us landscape photographers! - and the horizon was still red. I wondered if it had ever turned truly dark as I slept; it often doesn't at these latitudes in the height of Summer. As is often the case sunrise was a more muted affair of soft pastels, with a weather front from the east snuffing out most of the colour. The high tide didn't disappoint and I found a number of images amongst the rocks that I was really happy with.

Whilst Others Sleep

Despite this the highlight of the morning was my first ever - albeit distant - sighting of a wild otter, one of my favourite animals. One of the great privileges of being a landscape photographer is that I witness and experience things that many rarely or never do. Animal sightings, spectacular weather and light events, amazing views and the landscape looking at its finest are all enjoyed while many are asleep or watching TV. I don't mean to sound (too) smug but such things are an incredible reward for our efforts. I later photographed in the company of seals and, perhaps most bizarrely, a Royal Navy submarine in the Sound of Raasay. A great morning.

The mandatory campsite shot. A better view than my last fog-bound camping adventure!

Wild Camping and Photography

I'm conscious that my last post was about wild camping on a munro and this about wild camping on the coast (an altitude difference of 1000m). I wouldn't want it to sound like wild camping is a necessary part of my photography.

However when I'm driving one hour back from a location to drive back only a few hours later, camping is very much a time and fuel efficient approach as well as being rather enjoyable. It's much easier to climb into the tent at night and roll out again in the morning mere minutes from being able to make images. On this particular camp I was barely 50 yards from the car, so camping doesn't demand any real endeavour.

Perhaps more importantly camping is a great way to bond with a location. No longer is it somewhere we drive to for a couple of hours but it's our home for a night. Camping always feels like a very primal thing to do, it heightens my senses and awareness. Places I've camped always feel very special to me in a way that places I've 'merely' photographed may not. I highly recommend it.

Tunnel Vision

Given it was the point of this post, let me leave you with some images. I made about 400 - about 200 were of the otter mind you! - and my final selects and processing will no doubt change given time. Hopefully they give you a flavour of the conditions and the type of image I was going for on location.

Note how there are a range of different styles in this selection - from details, to more usual seascapes, to telephoto shots. I'm as guilty as anyone of getting 'tunnel vision' where I spend all of my time trying for a certain type of shot. It can be quite depressing coming home with 200 images that are essentially the same, where I  might select a handful and consign the others to a lifetime confined to the hard drive.

I'm very pleased to have come home with a range of different images that I'm happy with. I might have upwards of a dozen that I will go on to publish. The key I think is to snap out of the tunnel vision, to be observant and to be open to opportunities that arise.

I also found it useful to have two cameras on location with me. The Canon 5D3 with 24-70 was what I used for most of these shots, with a Fuji 55-200 mounted on an XT1 being used for the others. I've found this combination extremely useful on this trip. Not having to change lenses constantly is a real bonus, and at times I'd be making a long exposure or shooting a time-lapse with one whilst framing another image with the other.

This is somewhat counter to my regular argument of sticking with one piece of kit you're familiar with and focusing on getting the most from it. I still need to consider if this dual-camera approach will lead me to making stronger images or just more images, and will no doubt blog about it in the future.

Ok, finally, here are some images.

As a sidenote this location is one that we'll be visiting on my 5 day Torridon - and Applecross - workshop on Friday. It's not too late to join me. You can find details here.